SPICING UP RUSSIAN PALATESWith Asian cuisine gaining popularity in the Russian dining scene,
many of restaurants are adjusting their menus to cater to this new demand.
Natalia Makarova speaks to Glen Ballis, executive chef of one of the most renowned elite creation of Moscow restaurateur Arkady Novikov, Nedalny Vostok restaurant. Formerly the executive chef at Harrods, Australian-born Ballis shares his views on the peculiarities of the Russian palate, Singaporean influence on his menu and his preferences in Russian cuisine.
The name of the restaurant is "Nedalny Vostok" (Not Far East). How does it reflect on your style of cooking and the choice of dishes?
Originally, the restaurant concept was to be modern Russian cuisine with Asian overtones, using produce from the Far East and outer Baltic/Asian areas attached to or which were part of the Soviet Union States. Fish, crab and vegetables from these areas are some of the best I have tasted or used. It was never our intention to be Asian-driven but, actually, it's what our customer base was requesting. Not Far East came about because you didn't have to travel all the way to the Far East to enjoy the produce from the region; instead, you could savour it in central Moscow.
What do you think appeals most to Russians about Pan-Asian cuisine?
I guess the lightness, simplicity and interesting flavours. Russians in general don't like spicy food, but really enjoy the rich, full-bodied flavours that Asian cuisine is renowned for. On one hand, Russians are very conscious about what they eat; on the other, they order so much food that they can also feed the other tables around them. Also, let's not forget that as Russians in general are becoming wealthier, they are travelling more to Asia and getting a better understanding of local cuisines.
Do your frequent travels spark your creativity Which foreign country (or region) do you most enjoy eating in?
I think I have worked or lived in about eight different countries over the past 16 years. I call it a long working holiday! There is no doubt that travelling sparks creativity, I love to travel and eat. It's one of the pleasures of life. I normally plan two major trips per year and come back with new menu ideas. We then change the menu based on the new dishes and trends I have stumbled upon.
I really like Singaporean and Malaysian cuisines because of the blends and contrasts of different cultures and nationalities. I also enjoy very traditional Japanese food. Those who have eaten in our restaurant will taste and see those influences on the menu.
What can you say about Singapore being a well-known "food paradise"?
Food is amazing in Singapore! I think in such a small area, you can get possibly the best food in the world. I try to incorporate many flavours from Singapore: wok, noodles, soup, crabs, etc.
When you cook with your virtually signature Kamchatka crab, are there sany similarities with Singaporean chili crab?
Yeah, we do a version of Singaporean chili crab, but we use Kamchatka crab instead of the mud/Sri Lankan crab that is traditionally used. It's nice, tasty and you get more eatable meat out of it. We also offer black-bean and pepper crab. Over the past few years, we have served laksa, satay and many other Singaporean dishes. The response was very good!
Do you think Russian food is too plain and heavy to please foreigners Which are the most overrated (and underrated) Russian dishes?
I actually really enjoy Russian food. If it's cooked well, it's tasty and hearty. Let's not forget the influence of the ex-Soviet states' cultures which have influenced Russian cuisine in general. One of my favourites is vareniki. It's almost like ravioli but can be filled with anything: apples, cherries, potatoes, pork, lamb. It's served with sour cream or sometimes in bullion. In summer, Russians have shashlik, BBQ skewers of meat that are often marinated in yoghurt and herbs. I love it when spring arrives, with its sunny days and smell of BBQs – it is definitely something I will never forget about Russia.
What is your favourite food to cook with?
Seafood! I guess being Australian, it makes sense – you can do so much with it.
What was the most unusual item on your menu last year and what was the reaction from your guests?
We don't really do unusual things, but I guess for foreigners we have two dishes that are native to Vladivostok, which is the Far East of Russia. They are thinly-shaved frozen whitefish or beef served with infused dips and relishes. Almost like carpaccio, but still frozen. In that part of Russia, it snows and freezes for many months, so in the past when there were no fridges, people would place their meat or fish in the snow until they were frozen hard then as required they would go out into the snow shave off what's they required and eat it with pickled vegetables and vodka shots.
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Roozeh, 2016-08-28